How to replace (keyless) door handle on a W215 CL Mercedes

Like many others with keyless go, my car stopped responding to the door handle buttons. The unlock button worked (touch sensor on the 215) but the lock button did not respond, and just squished when pressed.

The rubber seal on the button fails, allowing water in, which eventually corrodes the contacts internally, as can be seen here:



I purchased part numberĀ A2157600670 (9744). The part without the last 4 digits is unpainted, the last 4 digits are the colour code for the car.


Remove the screws on the silver strip on the door shut.

141008-IMAG0279 141008-IMAG0280 141008-IMAG0281

Rember the screw in the black plastic trim around the latch, then remove the trim:



Fold back the upper part of the sealing rubber to reveal a hole:

141008-IMAG0284 141008-IMAG0283


Undo the Torx screw and “retain” (I was carefull not to drop the screw into the door).

Pull out the door lock and IR sensor portion. Firstly pull it out at an angle, with the towards the front of the car coming out first, then pull it out in one go.

141008-IMAG0285 141008-IMAG0286 141008-IMAG0287


Disconnect the IR sensor cable.

The next step is to remove the door card. I did not take pictures of this but it entails:

1. Remove speaker on top left by pulling away at the top, its is clipped
2. Remove Screw, its hidden behind the SRS logo on the right, this just unclips.
3. Insert plastic implement at the bottom right between the door card and the door and prise apart, do this all the way around the door to release the plastic clips.
4. Pull the bottom of the door card out first (to clear the speakers) and then lift upwards at an angle.
5. Remove the door cable that is attached to the interior door handle.

Unplug the connector, to do this you will need to remove some of the interior sound deadeningĀ around the door lock area:

141008-IMAG0291 141008-IMAG0292


I couldnt grab a picture of the connector, but its basically behind the panel where the red plastic rivet is, you can reach up and unplug it through the hole underneath.

Once removed, you can pull the door handle towards the back of the car, and remove.



Installation is the reverse of these steps. Nothing else needed!



Honda NC700 X LED brake and tail light

First thing I do when I get a new bike, is replace the bulb in the brake/tail assembly with an LED brake board.

The NC700 was a bit more invovled as the tail light doesnt split apart, you have to remove it from the bike to change the bulb, but its pretty easy to remove.

Once you have removed the plastic surrounding the rear brake light, I baked it at 110deg C for 10 minutes, Enough to make the plastic more pliable, I then used a knfe to split the red lense from the black base around the seam.



I then cleaned up the seam with a flat head scredriver, to be sealed later with hot glue.

140825-IMAG0085 140825-IMAG0086


Test fitting the Protoboard, just a small trim around the edges



After hot gluing in place and soldering the LED’s



The LEDs are Philips superflux coppies from china, 15,000MCD each. They were wired in series strings of 3, with 470 ohm resistors at the begging of each string. The tail feed is via another 470ohm resistor in series to dim the whole array. The brake wiring bypasses the resistor for full brightness when braking.

140825-IMAG0089 140825-IMAG0090 140825-IMAG0088140825-IMAG0091

I re-used the brake socket and hot glued the wires into place to maintain the waterproofing of the tail light.

Dont forget the white LED’s for number plate illumiation, glued to the inside of the housing pointing down



I glued the housing back into place with a bead of hot glue at the same, and rebuilt it back:

140825-IMAG0095 140825-IMAG0096 140825-IMAG0097 140825-IMAG0098 140825-IMAG0100